Tratoria da'a Marisa

Quite often, when stuffy restaurant reviewer types come to Venice, they will pick someplace like the restaurant at Hotel Danieli, Cipriani's, or Da Fiore as the “best” restaurant in Venice. While the last two are certainly wonderful restaurants, and deserve their worldwide acclaim, I was in search of something more Venetian.

Years ago, I started asking the locals about good, truly Venetian restaurants. Ignoring many of the recommendations of restaurants owned my members of their family (everyone here has a cousin who owns the “best” restaurant in Venice), one name kept appearing: “Dalla Marisa”.

The Italians are quite fond of the local cheeses from the Robiola of Piemonte to the Pepato of Sicily. Only a small portion of these cheeses make it to the cheese stores (and even less to the grocery stores) in the United States.

In many parts of Italy the locals enjoy their cheese with Mostarda. Mostarda is a product resembling marmalade in consistency, but has an aroma and a taste all its own. It is usually made by combining something sweet (like honey or candied pears) with something pungent (usually mustard powder). The combination pairs exceptionally well with a wide variety of cheeses, and is the perfect way to finish off your evening.

The pairing of mostarda with cheese after a meal seems to be most popular in the Veneto area (usually honey-based), with other fruits such as pear and watermelon being introduced in other regions.

Pick up a jar of Mostarda at your local Italian specialty shop. I'm enjoying a serving of Mostarda di Pera which I found (via Google) is also available here: http://bit.ly/PearMo or you can make your own like Mario Batali does: http://bit.ly/8jh098.

Once you have ended your meal by enjoying mostarda with some great Italian cheese, traditional desserts just don't seem to cut the mustard.

Snowfall in Venice

Over-commercialization of Christmas has become the phrase we use to describe this holiday celebration in the United States. Long before Halloween, we start to hear Christmas carols in the malls throughout the 50 states. So our first Christmas in Italy was a bit of a culture shock.

Thanksgiving had come and gone, and there was still no sign that Christmas was approaching. No lights hanging in the windows, no trees, no songs in the stores. We couldn’t even find Christmas cards. What gives?

As a past resident of Venice, people frequently write me and ask for the name of a good local Venetian restaurant. Here is a good selection of five truly local restaurants, frequented more often by Venetians than by tourists. Other than at Tre Archi, reservations are pretty much required for dinner, less so for lunch, but a simple phone call a few hours in advance usually does the trick. Please keep in mind that service in these restaurants is usually at the local pace – slow. Venetians tend to spend the entire evening dining. The restaurant is not simply a place to stop and get a bite on the way to your destination – it IS the destination.

Seafood is big here: Fried seafood, grilled fish, octopus, squid, razor clams, shrimp, mackerel, even fish lasagna. And if the menu is in only one or two languages, it's usually pretty good. These are some of our favorites. Of course, some we will continue to keep a secret!
Shrimp at Da Remigio

Da Remigio
Castello 3416
+39 0415 230089
Local Seafood, meats
Closed Tuesdays
Da Remigio is a bit more formal than the others listed here, but only in the sense that the waiters wear suits, the food is plated a bit nicer than at the others, and some of the food is a bit more upscale. Soft Shelled crabs and razor clams are two of their specialties.

Il Refolo in Campo San Giacomo Dall'Orio

Il Refolo
Santa Croce 1459 (Campo San Giacomo Dall’Orio)
Pizza, roast chicken
Open during warmer months of the year
+39 0141 5240016
Closed all day Monday, and Tuesday Lunch
This is the restaurant owned by the family which runs “Da Fiore”, the most prized restaurant in Venice. It’s a simpler restaurant “for the rest of us”; no special dress code, pizza is as popular here as the chicken and roast potatoes. It’s a great setting in the non-touristy Campo San Giacomo Dal’Orio along a quiet canal.

Osteria La Zucca

Osteria La Zucca
Santa Croce 1762
+39 0415 241570
www.lazucca.it
Closed Tuesday
La Zucca is a true gem of Venice. They serve great vegetarian dishes, but also lamb, rabbit, and chicken. It’s a tiny place on a small canal – most tables have no outside view, but no matter. Venetians love this place.

Osteria Anice Stellato

Osteria Anice Stellato
Cannaregio 3272
+39 0417 20744
Local Seafood, fresh vegetables, desserts made in house
This is where many Venetians families go to celebrate birthdays and anniversaries. More info can be found in this review: www.restaurantsomh.com

Ai Tre Archi

Ai Tre Archi
Cannaregio 552
+39 0417 16438
http://www.ai3archi.com
Pizza, Sarde in Saor, Bigoi in Salsa, pasta made in house
This may be the happiest family to run a restaurant in Venice. Get a table outside on Rio Cannaregio for an unobstructed view of the Venetian lagoon. The eggplant pizza is one of my favorites, as is the sardines in sweet and sour sauce. It’s a great place if part of your group is adventurous, while others need to stick with something recognizable.

Pizza at Ai Tre Archi