Five Reasons Venice is Sinking (It’s not the high water)

Venice’s Population is Elderly and Dying
The population of Venice is just over 60,000 and shrinks by 3 to 5% every year. The population is elderly, and is not being replaced.

Jobs are Disappearing
As real commerce is replaced by souvenir shops and bad restaurants, high paying jobs disappear. The young are leaving in search of better opportunity (and more space) on the mainland.

Hospitals, Butchers, Poultry, Dry Cleaners, Fresh Pasta Stores are Leaving.
As these services disappear, life on the island becomes more difficult. As life becomes more difficult, residents (who can) leave. As more residents leave, more services do the same.

Foreigners are Buying Up the Stores and Cafes
I have been told that immigrating to Italy is much easier if you already own a business there. Many foreigners have been purchasing the cafes and clothing stores, replacing them with mediocre products, and “1 Euro” stores. Of course, these new store owners, like most other workers in Venice, live on the mainland, thus contributing virtually nothing to the social fabric of the city.

Building Maintenance is Unaffordable
Owning a home in Venice is very difficult as maintenance costs are too high for the residents to pay. Construction materials must be brought in by boat and usually hoisted up through outside windows. Re-surfacing the outside of your building frequently means building a temporary dock on which the scaffolding can be placed, and then having it removed after the work has been completed. Many residents, therefore, leave rooms or even floors of their building closed off, living only in the sections they can afford to maintain.

Six Reasons to Go Anyway

The Serenity:
There certainly is nothing like La Serinissima (The Most Serene city). There is a calm that comes over you walking along the canals after dark when most of the tourists (and most of the workers) have gone home that is indescribable. On some nights, the sound of the choirs practicing echoes off the buildings, like the sound of angels looking over the dark (and sometimes foggy) alleys.

The History
Walking the calli of Venice is like reading a history book. “Street of the Strangled Priest”. “Alley of the Geese”, St. Mark’s Square” – It’s 1500 years of history laid out in front of your eyes, just waiting for you to soak it in.

The Markets
While many markets have gone, some great ones still remain, such as the Rialto Fish Market and Fruit and Vegetable stands. Fishmongers still sing, the Fruttivendoli shout the praises of their produce, and old ladies still do their shopping while their men stand by waiting, and discussing soccer.

The Food
There is an old saying, especially true in Venice: “The more languages on the menu, the worse the food.” If you stay away from the tourists, and from the multi-lingual menus, you can find some wonderful seafood in Venice. And rest assured, it will be nothing like what you find in Rome, Naples, or Sicily. Ask a local.

The People
Venetians are extremely conversational and friendly. Think about it – they have no cars, so (for the most part) they walk everywhere, seeing the same people every day. The town is like one large family, and there is always room for a few more. Shopkeepers frequently will close up their shops to join you for coffee. Residents have been known to walk with you for a mile to be sure you get where you are going.

The Architecture
Because of Venice’s unique location, built upon millions of tree trunks jammed into the muck below, the architecture is like nothing you will find elsewhere. And the mix of Moorish, Gothic, and pure Venetian buildings is quite a treat.

Debbie and Barry at Carnevale

To wear a mask was considered a sign of freedom and breach of all social rules imposed by the Republic of Venice. In Venice it embodied - more than anywhere else - the need of playing, of gambling and enjoying life. In fact, Oscar Wilde once said, "Man is least himself when he talks in his own person. Give him mask, and he will tell you the truth."

As a past resident of Venice, people frequently write me and ask for the name of a good local Venetian restaurant. Here is a good selection of five truly local restaurants, frequented more often by Venetians than by tourists. Other than at Tre Archi, reservations are pretty much required for dinner, less so for lunch, but a simple phone call a few hours in advance usually does the trick. Please keep in mind that service in these restaurants is usually at the local pace – slow. Venetians tend to spend the entire evening dining. The restaurant is not simply a place to stop and get a bite on the way to your destination – it IS the destination.

Seafood is big here: Fried seafood, grilled fish, octopus, squid, razor clams, shrimp, mackerel, even fish lasagna. And if the menu is in only one or two languages, it's usually pretty good. These are some of our favorites. Of course, some we will continue to keep a secret!
Shrimp at Da Remigio

Da Remigio
Castello 3416
+39 0415 230089
Local Seafood, meats
Closed Tuesdays
Da Remigio is a bit more formal than the others listed here, but only in the sense that the waiters wear suits, the food is plated a bit nicer than at the others, and some of the food is a bit more upscale. Soft Shelled crabs and razor clams are two of their specialties.

Il Refolo in Campo San Giacomo Dall'Orio

Il Refolo
Santa Croce 1459 (Campo San Giacomo Dall’Orio)
Pizza, roast chicken
Open during warmer months of the year
+39 0141 5240016
Closed all day Monday, and Tuesday Lunch
This is the restaurant owned by the family which runs “Da Fiore”, the most prized restaurant in Venice. It’s a simpler restaurant “for the rest of us”; no special dress code, pizza is as popular here as the chicken and roast potatoes. It’s a great setting in the non-touristy Campo San Giacomo Dal’Orio along a quiet canal.