The Isle of Capri

Any Amalfi Coast vacation must include travel to Capri. Who hasn't heard of this magnificent island? Floating just off the coast of Naples and the Amalfi Coast, the great Mediterranean jewel shimmers in the cobalt water. In the collective imagination, the island of Capri is a lost paradise scented with intoxicating flowers and enchanted by mermaids. Famous for natural wonders like the Blue Grotto, Green Grotto, and the Faraglioni rocks, its sunny locale also features a vibrant nightlife. The island is a place of myth and marvel, and Capri tours lure visitors from all over the world hoping for taste of its legendary lifestyle.

The Island of Capri has been inhabited since the 8th century and has been home to artists, writers, and movies stars (Mariah Carey supposedly owns a villa here), all inspired by its beauty and comforted by its remoteness. However, it was the Roman Emperor Tiberius who brought recognition to the island, as well as the party spirit that still lives on today. The Island of Capri is said to have been a favorite playground of the Roman emperors, and Tiberius’ villa on the island was the location (supposedly) of some famously scandalous parties---a Roman Playboy Mansion if you will. It’s even rumored that Tiberius flung those who displeased him from the cliffs to the sea below. Thankfully, Italian hospitality has vastly improved over the centuries.

We Sail To Capri

Several ferries to Capri travel daily from Naples and the Amalfi coast. We will travel to Capri in luxury, aboard our private yacht chartered directly from Positano beach, just a five minute walk from our villa. As we approach Capri the stunning Faragolioni rocks come into view, three shards of jagged limestone that jut from the sea, each with its own name. The first, still attached to the land, is called Stella. The second is Faraglione di Mezzo, and the third is Faraglione di Fuori. The Faraglione di Fuori is known for a one-of-a-kind species of blue tinted lizard. The Faraglione di Mezzo is most popular because of the natural tunnel cut out of its core, and has been immortalized in photos and postcards throughout the world. As we circumnavigate the island, colorful houses are stacked up the imposing hillsides, and wild goats can be seen climbing the steep cliffs.

The Blue Grotto

Among the 54 sparkling coves cut out of the cliffs, is found the isle of Capri's most famed landmark, or shall we say seamark, the Blue Grotto. The existence of the Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra), though known in Roman times, had been mostly forgotten for centuries, but was rediscovered in August 1826 by the German writer August Kopisch. Lucky it was for us. Entered via small boats steered by experienced locals, the sea cave is a display of refraction and light that gives off a blue the color of dreams. This is attributed to the sunlight that enters via an underwater opening, reflecting off the white rock deep below before being filtered by the water absorbing the red tones. The resulting phenomenon paints the water and bottoms of the boats in magical blue light.

Legends abound about the Blue Grotto. Was it really the home of the Nereidi--fifty nymphs of the sea in Greek mythology, each of them personified by slow soft waves that brought that brought calm and serenity to those who entered their abodes? You be the judge. According to legend, during moonlit nights, the Nereidi danced and sang in the proximity of the coastline near Positano bay, chosen for its clear waters and excellent acoustics to echo their enchanting songs.

Capri Tours

After circling Capri by sea, we will dock in the smaller of the islands two ports, to enjoy lunch at a beachside resaurant, far from the hordes of tourists. The cuisine of Capri is itself a souvenir to savor, left to us by the various rulers of the island. From the Greeks and Romans to the French and Spanish, the ingredients have combined to create a remarkable fusion of flavors. Of course the Italians love their staples of tomatoes and herbs, olives, and lemons. But the star of the show in Capri kitchens is seafood. Crustaceans, like spiny lobsters and scampi, are abundant and often seen roasting on grills. Or try traditional working class cuisine that also lives on in dishes like stuffed squid. Greens in a mind-boggling array of flavor and variety are a must (wild radicchio, watercress, herbs) all grown in the meadows on the Island of Capri. The torta caprese, a flourless chocolate and almond cake, is ubiquitous and certainly worthy of its namesake.

After lunch, small convertible taxis will take you up the winding roads that gradually ascend to the Capri's summit. Left behind by the former denizens of the island is plethora of archeological wonders including Villa Jovis (Villa Jupiter) and Villa Damecuta, two of 12 imperial Roman villas found on the Island of Capri. Enjoy the scenic panoramas that gird the island, or take the funicular to Capri Town from Marina Grande to poke around in the shops. Visit the town of Anacapri, and from here, take the chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro, and enjoy the views. As sunset approaches, we gradually make our way to the port on the opposite side of the island.

All dreams must come to an end, but this one isn't over yet. As we sail back to our villa in Positano to prepare for the evening feast, don’t forget to listen closely. It is in these waters that the sirens sing their songs, hoping to intoxicate passers by. They do not know that by now -- the enchanting Isle of Capri has already bewitched you.